Skin Barrier Repair: Signs, Causes and How to Fix It

Your skin was fine last month but now it stings when you apply your moisturizer, tight when you wash it and dull no matter what you do. Before you go buying a new serum, stop for a second. It could be that the problem is not in your skin type at all, it could be your skin barrier

The good news is that damaged barriers can often recover and you don’t need a 12 step routine to fix it. All you need is less products, gentler habits and a little patience, here’s a simple guide explaining the signs, causes and an easy way to recover your skin barrier.

What is a skin barrier and why is it important

The skin barrier is your skins outermost layer, it is the brick wall structure of your skin with your skin cells being the bricks and the fat, such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, the mortar

This outer layer has two very important jobs, to hold in moisture so that your skin is supple, plump and healthy looking and to prevent irritants, pollutants, allergens and bacteria from entering

If the mortar in your skin barrier starts to break down, your skin will lose moisture more easily and irritants will find it easier to enter your skin. This is why you get stinging, redness and breakouts. The skin barrier is not some fancy bonus to your skin, it is the foundation of it and all the products you apply to your skin are only as good as your skin’s ability to retain moisture is.

Signs of a compromised skin barrier

A compromised skin barrier has some very similar symptoms, everyone’s skin is different though so you might not get all of these. The most common signs though are:

• Tightness and dryness: Your skin feels tight, stretched and strained, this could even happen after moisturising
• Stinging and burning: Skincare that you’ve been using for ages of suddenly starts to burn you
• Redness and flushing: Your skin is inflamed and looks blotchy and pink
• Flakes and rough patches: Dry patches that might stick to your clothing and where your makeup slips off
• Sudden breakouts: Irritants and bacteria find it easier to enter your skin
• Oily and dehydrated at the same time: Oil production increases to compensate for the lack of moisture
• Itchiness and sensitivity: Water feels irritating and your skin is more sensitive to the touch
• Dullness: Your skin looks tired, unhealthy and lacks any sort of radiance
• Shiny but tight skin: Your skin looks shiny but feels tight and uncomfortable, this is a tell tale sign of dehydration

If you recognise most of these, there is a good chance that your skin barrier is the cause of your skin woes.

What causes a compromised skin barrier?

There are many factors that contribute to a weakened skin barrier and the cause of yours could be a combination of some of the following things

• Over-exfoliating with scrubs, acids or peeling
• Washing your face too much or too harshly
• Wearing too many actives at once
• Too hot of a shower or washing your face in very hot water
• Too much sun without protection
• Cold weather or very dry indoor heat
• Stress, lack of sleep and a bad diet
• Moisturising less because your skin is oily
• Trying new trending products before giving old ones a chance

I think it’s very telling that almost all of these things are things people do to improve their skin in the first place. Skin is delicate and sometimes the more we do it, the worse it gets.

Symptoms and what they usually mean

Symptom	What it means	What to do
Tight, dry skin	Your skins water content is too low	Use a heavy, fragrance free moisturiser
Stinging with products	Your skin barrier is very thin and reactive	Don’t use any actives for two weeks
Redness and flushing	Your skin is inflamed	Use a gentle cleanser with cool water
Flakes and patches	Your skin has been over-exfoliated or is dehydrated	No more exfoliating, more moisturising
Breakouts and bumps	Irritants and bacteria are getting through your skin barrier	Keep your routine basic
Oily and dehydrated	Your oil production is compensating for your skins lack of moisture	Use a light layer of hydration, avoid stripping cleansers

How to recover your skin barrier step by step

1. Strip your routine back to the bare essentials

This might be the most difficult step but it has to be done. Stop using all exfoliants, acids, scrubs and harsh actives for at least two to four weeks. This means your morning and evening skincare routine should only consist of a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser that helps your skin barrier and sunscreen if you’re wearing makeup during the day.

2. Cleanse gently

Use a gentle, low-foam, fragrance free cleanser and lukewarm water. In the mornings you might not need to use any cleanser at all if your skin is very sensitive and all you need is a splash of water. At night you should only need to rinse your cleanser off once and pat your skin dry with a towel. You shouldn’t be scrubbing or using any cleansing brushes while you’re recovering.

3. Moisturise like your life depends on it

When applying your moisturiser make sure you’re doing it on slightly damp skin so that you’re locking in any moisture. Look for ingredients like

• ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, which are good for rebuilding your skin barrier
• hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which draw moisture into your skin
• panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) and centella asiatica, which help reduce inflammation

You should also look out for squalane, which helps to smooth the skin.

During the day you should be reapplying moisturiser whenever your skin feels tight. As for your skin barrier recovery there is no such thing as too much hydration.

4. Don’t forget the sunscreen

Your skin barrier needs all the help it can get to recover and sun exposure will only stress it out more. Make sure you’re using a mineral or gentle chemical sunscreen, preferably with an SPF of 30 or higher and reapplying it every two to three hours when you’re outside. Even if you’re indoors or behind glass it’s still a good idea to wear sunscreen everyday to help your skin recover.

5. Seal it in at night

If you have very dry skin you can apply an occlusive, balm or ointment moisturiser on the driest parts of your skin to lock in all your previous products and help your skin recover overnight. Your skin does most of its repairing while you sleep so it’s important to give it all the help it needs.

What to avoid while you recover

While your skin recovers avoid using anything with

• fragrance
• alcohol based toners
• physical scrubs
• cleansing brushes
• harsh exfoliating acids
• clay masks, which will strip your skin even more.

You should also avoid any new products until you’ve finished the recovery process and can slowly start introducing new products back into your routine to test how your skin reacts.

How long does a skin barrier recovery take?

Most people start to notice a difference within a week or so but it will take between four and six weeks, on average, for your skin to fully recover as it has a cell renewal cycle of roughly 28 days. If the damage is more severe it could take even longer to fully recover so make sure you’re patient and don’t rush the process.

Lifestyle adjustments

There are some lifestyle adjustments you can make to aid the skin barrier recovery process such as

• getting seven to eight hours of sleep if you can
• drinking enough water and eating healthy fats like nuts and fish as part of a balanced diet
• using a humidifier if you have dry air
• taking shorter and warmer showers
• changing your pillowcases often.

It’s also important to manage your stress as it can increase inflammation which will prolong the healing process.

When to see a dermatologist

If your skin is painful, leaking fluid, inflamed or doesn’t seem to be recovering in around four to six weeks it’s time to book an appointment with a dermatologist. Chronic irritation can sometimes be a symptom of another skin condition so seeing a professional can rule out any other possible causes.